After seeing Anna's play on the Thursday we had a few days to experience what this great Northern city really has going for it. For me, a city can be judged pretty well on the quality/originality of its culinary houses and so this is where we started. After congratulating Anna and leaving her to get ready for her second performance of the evening, Saskia, Jenna, Alice and I headed over to Neon Cactus for a Mexican feast and to raise a glass to Alice for reaching the ripe old age of 21. With its high ceilings, moody red lighting, tequila lined walls and pumping music, Neon Cactus has a very cool vibe. The bar staff are friendly, chilled and helpful, and even managed to move a few people around so we could have a table.
Mexican food is a glorious cuisine. Chilli, beans, pulled pork, guacamole, salsas, jalepenos, chorizo and many other of my favourite ingredients are used abundantly, often wrapped up in soft warm fajitas and burritos. I fancied something a little crisper this time so plumped for the barbecue pulled pork and jalepeno nachos, which were meaty, cheesy, spicy and crispy- although they could have been more liberal with the guac/salsa/sour cream as I was left with a rather dry pile of nachos towards the end.
Either way, we gobbled up our Mexican extravaganza quicker than you could shake your maracas and before we knew it we were moving on to the next leg of the night. By this time Anna had finished her second performance and led us over to Belgrave Music Hall and Canteen for drinks. All of Leeds's bright young things seem to have gathered here; it was buzzing considering it was a random Thursday night. Long wooden tables stretched the length of the room and a live band played at the end under the glow of neon signs and Christmas lights.
Grabbing a few glasses of wine (warning- this place may have a down-to-earth and quirky vibe but the price for a large glass of wine is still pretty steep), we settled into some leather sofas, caught up on what we'd been up to since summer and people watched. What I really liked about it was its versatility. This place can suit any evening you fancy: its chilled enough for a casual drink or two with a friend, intimate enough to take someone on a date and fun enough for a big group knees up. They also have an awesome roof terrace, complete with garden shed and turfing. Why wouldn't you want a garden shed on a roof terrace? I surely do.
The next day was a real beauty. We awoke to blue sky stretching into the horizon and the sun just about taking the edge off the winter chill. This kind of bright, cold weather always puts me in the festive mood and so today's activities called for one thing. A Christmas market, of course.
I've spoken briefly about the German Christmas market in Bristol before, here. These markets set up their stalls in many of the big cities in the UK around Christmas time, however they vary in quality. If I'm honest the Bristol one is a bit of a let down- the ugly shops of Cabot Circus form the background for often half empty stalls (Sports Direct has never been a looker). Leeds's German market, however, is situated in Millennium Square with the Civic Hall, the Leeds City Museum and The Electric Press forming a very grand frame for the little market. There are double the amount of stalls than there are in its Bristolian counterpart and has a much wider array of filthily delicious foodie things. There was also a Lithuanian Santa wearing some killer shades and wandering around making balloon animals from a super trendy bum bag- a huge plus, securing it another firm victory over Bristol (sorry Briz- you're great at everything else).
After gorging ourselves on foot long hotdogs, garlic bread, chocolate strawberries, Nutella crepes and mulled wine, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Leeds's shopping scene and walking off our food babies… in preparation for our evening meal and food baby number two of the day.
While Anna prepped for her millionth performance of the weekend, her lovely family kindly invited Saskia and I to join them for an early evening meal at The Botanist.
God… where to start? I could wax lyrical about this place so I'll keep it short and sweet. It is INCREDIBLE. As the name suggests, the restaurant has a botanical theme. Walking through you feel as if you've been transported to a sweet little English garden, complete with greenhouse and potting shed: terracotta plant pots are scattered everywhere, some even acting as lamp shades, rustic metal lanterns hang from the ceiling, mixed in amongst the festive greenery and, together with the low beamed ceilings, the place could not be more charming.
Oh, and the food is pretty damn spectacular as well, in taste and presentation. I went for the halloumi hanging kebab with sweet chilli, ginger and garlic butter (at Alice's very wise recommendation) and this not only tasted beautiful but was presented wonderfully. By far the tallest dish I have ever ordered, the kebab hung over a bowl of fluffy cous cous and/or chips, whilst circling overhead was a perforated metal dish. Into this you poured your garlic butter, which proceeded to drip seductively down the kebab into the bowl of goodness underneath. Before this turns into actual food porn I will stop, but I think you get the picture. Show stopping.
Anna's family had to rush off at this point to see her in action, however Saskia and I decided to stay and sample the pudding menu. Having been totally smitten with the hanging kebabs, we went for its sister pudding dish, the skewered banana dipped in coconut and toffee with vanilla ice cream. In much the same way as the garlic butter, the toffee sauce was poured into the little metal dish and dripped down the banana into the bowl of ice cream. Yes, I am aware that the inclusion of a banana makes this sound even more X-rated than the kebab. Control those minds you filthy things.
At the moment The Botanist's only branches are in Leeds and Manchester (curse you Northerners), but according to the waiter they are opening a restaurant in Leicester Square in the near future so those of us who aren't brave enough to weather the Northern clime will be able to enjoy one of their fabulous restaurants in the capital.
Olympians, Eastern European Santas and a wealth of culinary delights. Leeds, you have outdone yourself.
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